Sabtu, 06 Desember 2008
Jumat, 05 Desember 2008
Regal Angelfish (Pygoplites Diacanthus)
Minimum Tank : 75 gallonsWater Condition :
Reef Compatibe : Yes
Behavior : Semi-aggressive
Care Lavel : Expert
Diet: Omnivore
Size : Small=
Price :
Discription: Orange and blue striped with dark blue dorsal fin and lemon yellow caudal fin.
Lighting
Regular cyclical lighting is used in aquariums to simulate day and night. This is beneficial for fish and invertebrates since it establishes a routine, enables them to rest, and makes them feel more secure. The lighting used varies depending on the inhabitants of the aquarium. Typically, the type of lighting for aquariums with fish only is regarded as unimportant. In aquariums containing invertebrates, however, where algal growth (of both free-living and symbiotic algae) is desired, more intense lighting is required. There are many types of lights available: some common types include fluorescent, VHO fluorescent (Very High Output), compact fluorescent, LED and metal halide. Actinic lights produce a deep blue spectrum designed to simulate the dominant wavelength of light a few metres below the ocean's surface.
Many different sources make different claims about what type of lighting system is the best. In reality, each technology or variation has its own advantages and disadvantages. The most primitive lighting source is natural sunlight. This is only effective in areas near the equator because the intensity of sunlight is greatest there. Efficiently utilizing natural sunlight requires complex planning and is usually utilized on only the largest reef systems. The next step up in technology is incandescent lamps. These are very wasteful of energy, producing between 15 and 30 lumens per watt of power (Out of a possible 683 lumens per watt for an ideal light source). Standard fluorescent lamps offer a great improvement over incandescents. There are better colour temperatures available in fluorescent tubes that are more suited to aquariums than those of regular light bulb. They are also more efficient, averaging between 90 and 95 lumens per watt. The downside to regular fluorescent lights is that they do not have the intensity to penetrate into deeper aquariums. There are a number of improved variations of fluorescent technology. The main ones are very high output (VHO), power compact fluorescent (PC), and T-5 high output (HO). VHO lamps are fluorescent lamps run at higher power levels, usually about three times the standard wattage for a given bulb length. They have the advantage of high light output, but the larger diameter bulbs limit the efficiency of reflectors. PC lighting is also high-power fluorescent lighting, but the bulbs are folded to put more tubes in a given space. The output of PC lamps are reduced by inefficient reflector designs. VHO and PC bulbs are also fairly expensive to replace. T-5 HO lights are the newest variation on fluorescent lights. They are run at slightly higher power levels than standard fluorescent lamps, but are made significantly thinner. This allows for more efficient reflector designs that get more light into the aquarium. Because of this, higher quality T-5 systems often match or exceed the output of equivalent compact fluorescent or VHO lighting fixtures. All types of fluorescent lighting offer the same efficiency in lumens per watt; it is the shape of the bulb and reflectors that makes their overall outputs different. Metal halide lights are the next level up from fluorescent technology. Metal halides produce about 90-100 lumens per watt of power. This is roughly the same as fluorescent. The improvement with metal halides is that they concentrate this light output into a very small space, whereas fluorescent lights evenly illuminate the entire aquarium. This is often referred to as point source lighting, and is what causes the rippling visual effect on many advanced aquarium setups. This concentration of light output increases the intensity, allowing metal halide lamps to get a lot of light to even the very bottom levels of most aquariums. Metal halides are available in many color temperatures, from 6500K up to 20,000K, though bulbs as high as 50,000K are occasionally found. The downsides of metal halide lighting are the cost and the heat produced. Most metal halide fixtures are more than double the price of an equivalent wattage fluorescent system, though prices have begun to drop in recent years. Halide lamps concentrate heat as well as light output. The surface of an operating lamp becomes hot enough to cause second or third degree burns instantly, so this lighting technology must be used with caution. The heat produced can also warm the aquarium to unacceptable levels, often necessitating the use of a chiller. The most recent addition to the list of aquarium lighting technologies is LED lighting. These have the potential to be much more efficient than any other technology, but have not yet become so because of issues of heat dissipation. LED's have the advantage of point source lighting, but are also completely dimmable at any power level. This allows for more advanced lighting schedules, even the simulation of cloud cover. So far, LED's have found use mainly as lunar lighting.
When considering lighting for an aquarium, there are generally two factors to consider: wattage and color temperature. Depending on the type of lighting (i.e. fluorescents, metal halide, etc) the wattage of light emitted may vary considerably, from tens of watts to several hundred watts in a lighting system. Wattage, while not indicative of color, is equivalent to power and essentially determines how brightly the light will shine. Due to the scattering of light in water, the deeper one's tank is, the more powerful the lighting required. Color temperature, measured in kelvin (albeit slightly unrepresentively) refers to the color of light being emitted by the lamp and is based on the concept of blackbody radiation. Light from the sun has a color temperature of approximately 5900 K and lighting systems with color temperatures >5000 K tend to be best for growing plants in both the marine and freshwater setting. 10,000 K light appears bluish-white and emphasizes coloration in fishes and corals. Higher up on the spectrum there are 14,000 K and 20,000 K bulbs that produce a deep blue tint which mimic the lighting conditions underseas, creating an optimal ambience for invertebrates and livestock present.
Many different sources make different claims about what type of lighting system is the best. In reality, each technology or variation has its own advantages and disadvantages. The most primitive lighting source is natural sunlight. This is only effective in areas near the equator because the intensity of sunlight is greatest there. Efficiently utilizing natural sunlight requires complex planning and is usually utilized on only the largest reef systems. The next step up in technology is incandescent lamps. These are very wasteful of energy, producing between 15 and 30 lumens per watt of power (Out of a possible 683 lumens per watt for an ideal light source). Standard fluorescent lamps offer a great improvement over incandescents. There are better colour temperatures available in fluorescent tubes that are more suited to aquariums than those of regular light bulb. They are also more efficient, averaging between 90 and 95 lumens per watt. The downside to regular fluorescent lights is that they do not have the intensity to penetrate into deeper aquariums. There are a number of improved variations of fluorescent technology. The main ones are very high output (VHO), power compact fluorescent (PC), and T-5 high output (HO). VHO lamps are fluorescent lamps run at higher power levels, usually about three times the standard wattage for a given bulb length. They have the advantage of high light output, but the larger diameter bulbs limit the efficiency of reflectors. PC lighting is also high-power fluorescent lighting, but the bulbs are folded to put more tubes in a given space. The output of PC lamps are reduced by inefficient reflector designs. VHO and PC bulbs are also fairly expensive to replace. T-5 HO lights are the newest variation on fluorescent lights. They are run at slightly higher power levels than standard fluorescent lamps, but are made significantly thinner. This allows for more efficient reflector designs that get more light into the aquarium. Because of this, higher quality T-5 systems often match or exceed the output of equivalent compact fluorescent or VHO lighting fixtures. All types of fluorescent lighting offer the same efficiency in lumens per watt; it is the shape of the bulb and reflectors that makes their overall outputs different. Metal halide lights are the next level up from fluorescent technology. Metal halides produce about 90-100 lumens per watt of power. This is roughly the same as fluorescent. The improvement with metal halides is that they concentrate this light output into a very small space, whereas fluorescent lights evenly illuminate the entire aquarium. This is often referred to as point source lighting, and is what causes the rippling visual effect on many advanced aquarium setups. This concentration of light output increases the intensity, allowing metal halide lamps to get a lot of light to even the very bottom levels of most aquariums. Metal halides are available in many color temperatures, from 6500K up to 20,000K, though bulbs as high as 50,000K are occasionally found. The downsides of metal halide lighting are the cost and the heat produced. Most metal halide fixtures are more than double the price of an equivalent wattage fluorescent system, though prices have begun to drop in recent years. Halide lamps concentrate heat as well as light output. The surface of an operating lamp becomes hot enough to cause second or third degree burns instantly, so this lighting technology must be used with caution. The heat produced can also warm the aquarium to unacceptable levels, often necessitating the use of a chiller. The most recent addition to the list of aquarium lighting technologies is LED lighting. These have the potential to be much more efficient than any other technology, but have not yet become so because of issues of heat dissipation. LED's have the advantage of point source lighting, but are also completely dimmable at any power level. This allows for more advanced lighting schedules, even the simulation of cloud cover. So far, LED's have found use mainly as lunar lighting.
When considering lighting for an aquarium, there are generally two factors to consider: wattage and color temperature. Depending on the type of lighting (i.e. fluorescents, metal halide, etc) the wattage of light emitted may vary considerably, from tens of watts to several hundred watts in a lighting system. Wattage, while not indicative of color, is equivalent to power and essentially determines how brightly the light will shine. Due to the scattering of light in water, the deeper one's tank is, the more powerful the lighting required. Color temperature, measured in kelvin (albeit slightly unrepresentively) refers to the color of light being emitted by the lamp and is based on the concept of blackbody radiation. Light from the sun has a color temperature of approximately 5900 K and lighting systems with color temperatures >5000 K tend to be best for growing plants in both the marine and freshwater setting. 10,000 K light appears bluish-white and emphasizes coloration in fishes and corals. Higher up on the spectrum there are 14,000 K and 20,000 K bulbs that produce a deep blue tint which mimic the lighting conditions underseas, creating an optimal ambience for invertebrates and livestock present.
Water testing
Marine aquarists commonly test the water in the aquarium for a variety of chemical indicators of water quality. These include:
Specific gravity, a relative measure of water density, is normally maintained between 1.020 and 1.024 in aquariums with fish only, and 1.023 and 1.026 for aquariums containing invertebrates. Salinity should therefore be between 28 and 35 PPT, with the higher values being beneficial in advanced reef systems. Because salinity is by definition directly related to specific gravity, both can be tested with an inexpensive hydrometer or refractometer.
pH should be maintained between 8.1 and 8.3. This can be raised with a commercially available buffering agent or through calcium-rich substrata. Carbonate hardness (KH) should be between 8 and 12 degrees. A calibrated calcium reactor can assist in maintaining both pH and carbonate hardness. Using purified water from a reverse osmosis / deionization (RO/DI) unit can prevent KH and pH fluctuation.
The nitrogen cycle refers to the conversion of toxic ammonia to nitrite and finally nitrate. While fish waste (urine and feces) and decaying matter release ammonia, the majority of ammonia released (approximately 60%) in both marine and freshwater aquariums is excreted directly into the water from the fishes' gills. Biological (bacterial) nitrification converts the ammonia into nitrite ions, NO2-, and then to nitrate ions, NO3-. Nitrate is readily taken up and assimilated by algae and hermatypic corals. Some nitrate is converted via an anaerobic bacterial process to free nitrogen, but this process is very difficult to maintain. Most nitrate, which is less toxic to fishes and most invertebrates than nitrites, accumulates in the water until it is physically removed by a water change. Ammonia and nitrite should be tested regularly; any detectable levels (i.e., over 0 ppm) can be indicative of a problem. Nitrates should not exceed 20ppm in reef tanks, or 40 ppm in fish-only tanks. It is normal to have a small amount of nitrate buildup, and some livestock are more capable of living in these conditions than others. Most hermatypic corals, while able to assimilate nitrate, cannot be expected to survive indefinitely with chronically high nitrate concentrations (>40 mg/L as nitrate ion (~ 10 mg/L nitrate-nitrogen)).
Other suggested tests include those for calcium, alkalinity, iodine, strontium, molybdenum, and other trace minerals. It is often beneficial (and necessary) for the aquarist to research the water chemistry parameters for the specific organism that is desired.
Specific gravity, a relative measure of water density, is normally maintained between 1.020 and 1.024 in aquariums with fish only, and 1.023 and 1.026 for aquariums containing invertebrates. Salinity should therefore be between 28 and 35 PPT, with the higher values being beneficial in advanced reef systems. Because salinity is by definition directly related to specific gravity, both can be tested with an inexpensive hydrometer or refractometer.
pH should be maintained between 8.1 and 8.3. This can be raised with a commercially available buffering agent or through calcium-rich substrata. Carbonate hardness (KH) should be between 8 and 12 degrees. A calibrated calcium reactor can assist in maintaining both pH and carbonate hardness. Using purified water from a reverse osmosis / deionization (RO/DI) unit can prevent KH and pH fluctuation.
The nitrogen cycle refers to the conversion of toxic ammonia to nitrite and finally nitrate. While fish waste (urine and feces) and decaying matter release ammonia, the majority of ammonia released (approximately 60%) in both marine and freshwater aquariums is excreted directly into the water from the fishes' gills. Biological (bacterial) nitrification converts the ammonia into nitrite ions, NO2-, and then to nitrate ions, NO3-. Nitrate is readily taken up and assimilated by algae and hermatypic corals. Some nitrate is converted via an anaerobic bacterial process to free nitrogen, but this process is very difficult to maintain. Most nitrate, which is less toxic to fishes and most invertebrates than nitrites, accumulates in the water until it is physically removed by a water change. Ammonia and nitrite should be tested regularly; any detectable levels (i.e., over 0 ppm) can be indicative of a problem. Nitrates should not exceed 20ppm in reef tanks, or 40 ppm in fish-only tanks. It is normal to have a small amount of nitrate buildup, and some livestock are more capable of living in these conditions than others. Most hermatypic corals, while able to assimilate nitrate, cannot be expected to survive indefinitely with chronically high nitrate concentrations (>40 mg/L as nitrate ion (~ 10 mg/L nitrate-nitrogen)).
Other suggested tests include those for calcium, alkalinity, iodine, strontium, molybdenum, and other trace minerals. It is often beneficial (and necessary) for the aquarist to research the water chemistry parameters for the specific organism that is desired.
Filtration
In general, marine aquariums have more complex filtration requirements than most freshwater aquariums. The various components frequently include Wet and dry filters and Protein skimmers. Protein skimmers are devices that remove organic compounds prior to their degradation, and are also very useful in marine aquariums. Protein skimming is also used in the popular Berlin method that relies on live rock, and periodic partial water changes to degrade and remove waste products. The Berlin method relies on large amounts of live rock being included in the aquarium. The rule of thumb is 1/2 - 1 lb. per 1 US gallon (0.2 - 0.4 kg per 4 liters). Some marine aquariums also include a refugium and/or a sump. Refugiums are small containers, or aquariums hidden behind or beneath the main aquarium and connected to it via a water pump. Refugiums have recently become quite popular among reef aquarists. Refugiums serve several purposes: adding water volume, providing a fish-free site for biological filtration in live rock and/or the sandbed. Fish-free refugiums are host to populations of copepods, amphipods, isopods and other zooplankton. The sump may contain a number of compartments, each with its own filtration material. Often, heaters, thermostats, and protein skimmers are placed in the sump.
Temperate
One of the more obscure types of fish tanks, the temperate marine tank holds fish of temperate climate areas. With temperatures ranging from around 50-75F these tanks aren't as aesthetically pleasing as their tropical counterparts, since most coldwater fish are gray or dull in color. They also tend to require extra skill to maintain.
Since coldwater cnidarians are rare and corals almost non-existent hobbyists are almost strictly confined to fish, crustaceans and mollusks. Since there are very few commercially available coldwater fish, hobbyists have to physically acquire specimens for oneself. The most common way of doing this is by trolling or seining. Unlike commercially available tropical fish, whose behavior patterns and tank compatibilities are well documented, coldwater fish require much local ichthyology knowledge in order to maintain.
Since coldwater cnidarians are rare and corals almost non-existent hobbyists are almost strictly confined to fish, crustaceans and mollusks. Since there are very few commercially available coldwater fish, hobbyists have to physically acquire specimens for oneself. The most common way of doing this is by trolling or seining. Unlike commercially available tropical fish, whose behavior patterns and tank compatibilities are well documented, coldwater fish require much local ichthyology knowledge in order to maintain.
Marine aquarium
The major components are an aquarium, usually made from glass or acrylic, filtration equipment, lighting, and an aquarium heater. Marine aquariums can range in volume from less than 80 liters, (< 20 US gal) to over 1,200 litres (300 US gal). Small volumes are more difficult to maintain due to the more rapid changes in water chemistry. The majority of saltwater aquariums are between 160 and 400 liters (40 and 100 US gal).
Quarantine
Saltwater Acclimation
Please read all steps before beginning.
Because patience and proper acclimation are the most critical elements in ensuring the survival of your new arrivals, it is essential to read and understand all steps before beginning.
NOTE: Water in the fish bags will naturally be high in fish waste created during transport, therefore no water from the bags should ever enter your quarantine tank or aquarium.
1. Never rush the acclimation process! Take a minimum of one hour to allow the fish, corals, and invertebrates time to adjust to their new home. Two to three hours is not unusual and allows the specimens the best chance for survival.
2. While corals can be acclimated in about half the time of fish, invertebrates require additional time. Anemones, shrimp, and starfish are extremely susceptible to perishing due to abrupt changes in temperature, pH, and salinity.
3. The inhabitants of the quarantine tank or aquarium that will be receiving the new animals should be fed. After feeding, turn the aquarium lights off for the remainder of the day. Room lights should also be dimmed to reduce stress.
4. The UNOPENED bags should be floated in the quarantine tank or aquarium for 20 minutes.
5. It is critical not to open the bags until after the shipping water has had time to match the quarantine tank or aquarium water temperature. If opened prematurely, the water will quickly lose dissolved oxygen causing possible suffocation. Air stones must never be added to the shipping bag. The aeration process will rapidly raise the pH and cause an increased ammonia level, each of which is toxic to the fish.
6. Carefully cut the shipping bag as close to the stainless steel clip as possible.
7. Roll back the edges of the plastic to form a float ring. Continue floating the now open bags. For heavier items that are prone to sinking, such as corals, place the items and all of the shipping water in an acclimation container. An empty bucket or Rubbermaid container works well for this.
8. Add ½ ounce (approx a shot glass) to a couple of ounces of quarantine tank or aquarium water, depending on the size of the shipping bag, into the bag or acclimation container containing the new item. Add no more than 20% of aquarium water into bag at any time. For fish that ship in smaller bags, the amount should literally be six to eight drops. A more gradual water exchange ensures the best chance for a successful transition.
9. Repeat Step 8, adding the small amount of water every 10 minutes.
10. When the bag is nearly full, dispose of half of the water from the bag.
11. Repeat Steps 8 and 9
12. Your new specimens are now ready to be transferred to the quarantine tank or aquarium. Again, remember that no water from the shipping bags should enter your quarantine tank or aquarium. Use a net or a cup to transfer your new animals from the bag your quarantine tank or aquarium.
Please read all steps before beginning.
Because patience and proper acclimation are the most critical elements in ensuring the survival of your new arrivals, it is essential to read and understand all steps before beginning.
NOTE: Water in the fish bags will naturally be high in fish waste created during transport, therefore no water from the bags should ever enter your quarantine tank or aquarium.
1. Never rush the acclimation process! Take a minimum of one hour to allow the fish, corals, and invertebrates time to adjust to their new home. Two to three hours is not unusual and allows the specimens the best chance for survival.
2. While corals can be acclimated in about half the time of fish, invertebrates require additional time. Anemones, shrimp, and starfish are extremely susceptible to perishing due to abrupt changes in temperature, pH, and salinity.
3. The inhabitants of the quarantine tank or aquarium that will be receiving the new animals should be fed. After feeding, turn the aquarium lights off for the remainder of the day. Room lights should also be dimmed to reduce stress.
4. The UNOPENED bags should be floated in the quarantine tank or aquarium for 20 minutes.
5. It is critical not to open the bags until after the shipping water has had time to match the quarantine tank or aquarium water temperature. If opened prematurely, the water will quickly lose dissolved oxygen causing possible suffocation. Air stones must never be added to the shipping bag. The aeration process will rapidly raise the pH and cause an increased ammonia level, each of which is toxic to the fish.
6. Carefully cut the shipping bag as close to the stainless steel clip as possible.
7. Roll back the edges of the plastic to form a float ring. Continue floating the now open bags. For heavier items that are prone to sinking, such as corals, place the items and all of the shipping water in an acclimation container. An empty bucket or Rubbermaid container works well for this.
8. Add ½ ounce (approx a shot glass) to a couple of ounces of quarantine tank or aquarium water, depending on the size of the shipping bag, into the bag or acclimation container containing the new item. Add no more than 20% of aquarium water into bag at any time. For fish that ship in smaller bags, the amount should literally be six to eight drops. A more gradual water exchange ensures the best chance for a successful transition.
9. Repeat Step 8, adding the small amount of water every 10 minutes.
10. When the bag is nearly full, dispose of half of the water from the bag.
11. Repeat Steps 8 and 9
12. Your new specimens are now ready to be transferred to the quarantine tank or aquarium. Again, remember that no water from the shipping bags should enter your quarantine tank or aquarium. Use a net or a cup to transfer your new animals from the bag your quarantine tank or aquarium.
Bellus Lyretail Angelfish (Genicanthus Bellus)
Minimum Tank : 100 gallonsWater Condition :
Reef Compatibe : Yes
Behavior : Peaceful
Care Lavel : Moderate
Diet: Planktivore
Size : Small=
Price :
Discription: Light blue all over. Exhibits strong sexual dimorphism- females have wide black bands, males' bands are orange.
Starfish
| Code | English Name | Latine Name | Ref | Qty/Box |
| S T A R F I S H | ||||
| 4800 | Sand Swifter StarfFish | Astropecten Sp. | - | 30 |
| 4801 | Black/White Brittle StarfFish | Ophioderma Sp. Tiger | - | 60 |
| 4802 | Red Starfish Dotty White | Fromia Monilis | - | 60 |
| 4803 | Horned Starfish | Protoreaster Sp. Nodosus | 5-962 | 60 |
| 4804 | Speckled Starfish | Nardoa Turberculata | 5-982 | 30 |
| 4805 | Black Brittle Starfish | Ophiocoma Sp. Black | 5-1035 | 60 |
| 4806 | Sponge Brittle Starfish | Ophiohtrix Sp. | - | 60 |
| 4807 | Blue Starfish (M) | Linckia Laevigata (M) | 5-978 | 50 |
| 4808 | Blue Starfish (L) | Linckia Laevigata (L) | 5-978 | 24 |
| 4809 | Blue Starfish (XL) | Linckia Laevigata (XL) | 5-978 | 12 |
| 4810 | Red Brittle Starfish | Ophioderma Sp. Red | - | 75 |
| 4811 | Purple Sponge Brittle Starfish | Ophiothrix Purpurea | - | 60 |
| 4812 | Yellow Sponge Brittles Starfish | Ophiothrix Sp. Yellow | - | 60 |
| 4813 | Orange Starfish Dotty Red | Fromia Monilis (Orange) | 5-988-1 | 60 |
| 4814 | Pink Starfish Red Tip | Fromia Monilis (Pink) | - | 60 |
| 4815 | Red Starfish | Fromia Monilis (Red) | 5-965 | 60 |
| 4816 | Olive Brittle Starfish | Ophiocoma Sp. Olivegreen | - | 60 |
| 4817 | Red Feather Starfish | Stepanometra / Comaster Red | 5-903 | 24 |
| 4818 | Yellow Feather Starfish | Stepanometra / Comaster Yellow | 5-903 | 24 |
| 4819 | Brown Feather Starfish | Stepanometra / Comaster Brown | - | 24 |
| 4820 | Black Feather Starfish | Stepanometra / Comaster Black | - | 24 |
| 4821 | White Feather Starfish | Stepanometra / Comaster White | - | 24 |
| 4822 | Green Metallic Feather Starfish | Stepanometra / Comaster Metal Green | - | 30 |
| 4823 | Giant Feather Starfish | Stepanometra / Comaster (XL) Colour | - | 24 |
| 4824 | Orange Starfish | Linckia Sp. | - | 30 |
Sponges
| Code | English Name | Latine Name | Ref | Qty/Box |
| S P O N G E S | ||||
| 5600 | Purple Tube Sponge | Haliclona Sp. Purple | - | 24 |
| 5601 | Spiny Sponge Orange | Acanthella Canvernosa | 3-56 | 24 |
| 5602 | Soft Blue Tube Sponge | Haliclona Sp. Blue | 3-61 | 24 |
| 5603 | Yellow Sponge | Pseudosuberites Andrewsi | - | 24 |
| 5604 | Orange Fan Sponge | Phakellia Flabillata | 4-50 | 24 |
| 5605 | Corn Sponge Orange | Stylissa Carteri | 3-63 | 24 |
| 5606 | Red/Orange Finger Sponge | Latrunculia Corticata | 3-50-6 | 24 |
| 5607 | Red Trumphet Sponge | Haliclona Sp. | - | 24 |
| 5608 | Blue Trumphet Sponge | Haliclona Sp. | - | 24 |
| 5609 | Blue Trumphet Sponge - Branch | Haliclona Sp. | - | 24 |
| 5610 | Ball Sponge | Acanthella Sp. | - | 24 |
| 5611 | Monkey Sponge | Polycarpa Aurata | 255-2 | 24 |
| 5612 | Corn Sponge Green | Stylissa Carteri | - | 24 |
| 5613 | Green Lollipop | Stylissa Sp. | - | 24 |
| 5614 | Yellow Tube Sponge | Stylissa Sp. | - | 24 |
Shimps
| Code | English Name | Latine Name | Ref | Qty/Box |
| S H R I M P S | ||||
| 4600 | Fire Shrimp | Lysmata Debelius | 3-246 | 50 |
| 4601 | Cleanner Shrimp - (XL) | Lysmata Amboinensis (XL) | 3-244 | 50 |
| 4602 | Cleanner Shrimp - (M) | Lysmata Amboinensis (M) | 3-244 | 50 |
| 4603 | Cleanner Shrimp - (S) | Lysmata Amboinensis (S) | 3-244 | 75 |
| 4604 | Anemon Shrimp | Periclimensis Brevicarpalis | 3-266 | 75 |
| 4605 | Boxing Shrimp | Stenopus Hispidus | 3-274 | 75 |
| 4606 | Red/Yellow Boxing Shrimp | Stenopus Zanzibaricus | - | 75 |
| 4607 | Blue Legs Boxing Shrimp | Stenopus Cyanoscelis | 3-273 | 50 |
| 4608 | Harlequin Shrimp | Hymmenocera Picta | 3-258 | 75 |
| 4609 | Dancing Camel Shrimp | Rynchocinetes Durbanensis | 3-255 | 105 |
| 4610 | Marble Shrimp | Saron Inermis | 3-250 | 75 |
| 4611 | Purple Legs Marble Shrimp | Saron Rectirostris | 3-252 | 75 |
| 4612 | Glass Anemon Shrimp | Periclimenes Holthuisi | 3-267 | 105 |
| 4613 | Sexy Pistol Shrimp | Thor Amboinensis | - | 105 |
| 4614 | Peppermint Shrimp | Lysmata Sp. | - | 75 |
Shell & Snails (*Cites Required)
| Code | English Name | Latine Name | Ref | Qty/Box |
| SHELL & SNAILS (*CITES REQUIRED) | ||||
| 4700 | Cowrie/Porcelain Snail (White) | Ovula Ovum | 5-604 | 30 |
| 4701 | Cowrie/Porcelain Snail (Tiger) | Cypraea Tigris | 5-598 | 30 |
| 4702 | Dwarf Cowrie/Porcelain Snail (Ring) | Cypraea Annulus | 5-600 | 210 |
| 4703 | Chiton Snail | Acanthoppleura Spinosa | - | 30 |
| 4704 | Flame Scallop (Electric) | Limaria Scabra | 5-776 | 75 |
| 4705 | Turbo Snail (Round) | Nerita Maxima | 4-576 | 75 |
| 4706 | Turbo Snail (Pyramid-Small) | Trochus Histrio | 4-574 | 525 |
| 4707 | Turbo Snail (Pyramid-Medium) | Trochus Pyramis | 4-574 | 375 |
| 4708 | Turbo Snail (Pyramid-Large) | Tecthus Sp. | 4-574 | 75 |
| 4709 | Giant Clam Brown /Yellow *) | Tridacna Crocea / Maxima *) | - | 24 |
| 4710 | Giant Clam Brown /Yellow (S)*) | Tridacna Crocea / Maxima *) | - | 30 |
| 4711 | Giant Clam Metalic Blue/Green*) | Tridacna Maxima *) | - | 24 |
| 4712 | Giant Clam Blue / Green *) | Tridacna Crocea / Maxima *) | - | 24 |
| 4713 | Giant Clam Blue / Green (S) *) | Tridacna Crocea / Maxima *) | - | 30 |
| 4714 | Oyster (Colour) | Spondylus Varius | 5-773 | 75 |
| 4715 | Comb Clam | Lopha Cristagalli | 5-778 | 75 |
| 4716 | Trumpet Snail | Cymatium Sp | - | 75 |
Seaurchins
| Code | English Name | Latine Name | Ref | Qty/Box |
| S E A U R C H I N S | ||||
| 4500 | Long Spined Hatpin Urchins (Black) | Diadema Setosum | 5-1085 | 30 |
| 4501 | Shield Urchin Purple Black | Colobocentrotus Atratus | 5-1109 | 50 |
| 4502 | Crown Spined Pencil Urchin | Prionociclaris Baculosa | 5-1071 | 50 |
| 4503 | Common Algae Sea Urchins | Echinometra Mathaei | 5-1113 | 50 |
| 4504 | Short Spine Hatpin Urchin (Black) | Echinothrix Diadema | 5-1088 | 50 |
| 4505 | Long Spined Halpin Urchins (Colour) | Echinothrix Calamaris | 5-1087 | 50 |
| 4506 | Poison Sea Urchins (Dangurus) | Toxopneustes Pileolus | 5-1096 | 24 |
| 4507 | Long Spined Hatpin Urchins (Black/White) | Diadema Savignyi | 5-1083 | 30 |
| 4508 | Multicolor Short Spine Urchin | Mespilia Sp. | - | 30 |
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